皮尔·卡丹 · 太庙发布PIERRE CARDIN · Imperial Ancestral Temple
· 北京太庙 · Beijing
- 总导演Show Director
- 张舰Jerry Zhang
- 总策划Creative Planning
- 宋怀桂Song Huaigui
- 舞美设计Set Design
- 焦发祖Jiao Fazu
- 舞美搭建Set Construction
- 刘德山Liu Deshan
- 舞美监制Set Supervision
- 毛向忠Mao Xiangzhong
创意 · 编导 · 制作Creative · Direction · Production

1984—1998
张舰的职业实践始于1980年代的服装表演。最初的工作既包括模特的排练与行进,也包括如何让服装、人物和舞台形成一个完整的观看过程。随着表演队、专业团体与模特经纪组织的发展,这些实践逐渐延伸到品牌发布的创意、编排和现场制作。
1984年,他组建北京纺织局服装表演队;1986年,参与将团队发展为北京服装表演团;1989年,组建中国服装艺术表演团。1992年改组成立新丝路模特经纪公司后,他继续在模特培养、演出组织和时尚传播之间探索新的工作方式。
1990年代的国际交流进一步拓宽了他的制作视野。纽约的学习与见习,以及与海外制作团队的合作,让排练、试装、后台管理、灯光与舞美之间的专业协同成为创作的重要部分。1996年,他带领中国模特赴米兰参与Krizia发布,并参与世界精英模特大赛在中国的相关工作。
与此同时,时装表演开始走出常规的宴会厅与T台。从1990年皮尔·卡丹太庙发布,到1993年天坛《世纪风》时尚晚会,再到1997年杉杉《走进东方》,服装、建筑、表演与观看方式之间的关系不断被重新组织。这些早期项目为后来持续展开的实景秀与跨界制作积累了经验。
1998年,张舰与陈娟红共同创办概念98。此前的个人职业经历,是团队创作方法的来源;此后的项目则由不同编导、制作人、舞美、灯光、音乐与后台人员共同完成。网站以每场项目的具体署名记录协作,让舞台背后的创作也得到清楚呈现。
Zhang Jian began his professional practice in fashion presentation in the 1980s. His work considered not only how models move, but also how clothes, people and the stage become a coherent viewing experience. This practice gradually expanded into the creative planning, choreography and production of brand presentations.
He formed the Beijing textile bureau’s fashion presentation team in 1984, developed the Beijing Fashion Performance Troupe in 1986 and established the China Fashion Art Performance Troupe in 1989. Following the formation of New Silk Road in 1992, he continued to explore the relationship between model development, production and fashion communication.
International study and professional exchanges in the 1990s brought new perspectives on rehearsals, fittings, backstage coordination, lighting and set production. In 1996 he took Chinese models to Milan for a Krizia presentation and participated in work associated with Elite Model Look in China.
Early projects including Pierre Cardin’s presentation at the Imperial Ancestral Temple in 1990, the Century Wind event at the Temple of Heaven in 1993 and Shanshan’s Into the East in 1997 explored new relationships between fashion, architecture and performance. These experiences laid the groundwork for later site-specific shows.
In 1998 Zhang Jian co-founded Galaxy98 with Chen Juanhong. His earlier professional history is presented separately from the company-era archive. Later projects are documented with their own directors, producers, set designers, lighting, music and backstage teams, recognising the collaborative work behind each presentation.
· 北京太庙 · Beijing
北京天坛祈年殿Beijing
北京天伦王朝酒店Beijing
以上项目均早于概念98成立,节选自《从T台走来》,并根据公开人物报道整理。The above projects all predate Galaxy98. They are excerpted from Flying on Catwalk and compiled with reference to published profiles.

张舰 著 / 北京联合出版公司By Jerry Zhang / Beijing United Publishing Co., Ltd.
张舰编导制作的时装秀作品集A collection of fashion shows directed and produced by Jerry Zhang







可通过淘宝购买,或直接联系雷立 Ray 咨询购书。Order through Taobao, or contact Ray directly for book enquiries.
